As someone who has lived in Kyoto for several months now, I thought it might be helpful to write a basic guide for the people who are going to the PT. The guide covers transportation, some basic advice, and recommendations (for food, drinking, recreation, sightseeing), and contains some basic Japanese phrases and words at the end.

GETTING AROUND

To Kyoto from KIX: There is a train station a couple minutes' walk from International Arrivals. Take the Haruka train to Kyoto Station. If you have purchased a JR pass, you can use it to cover this fare; otherwise it will cost 2980 for a non-reserved seat. The ride takes about 75 minutes. Trains leave on every half-hour, with the last one departing at 8:30.

Within Kyoto:

There are several train and subway lines in Kyoto, as well as a bus system. I'm only going to list the ones that I think are important,

1) The KEIHAN line goes from Demachiyanagi station (Imperial Palace, Ginkakuji temple) all the way south to Osaka. The important stops are Sanjo (shopping, nightlife), Gion-Shijo (shopping, nightlife, Yasaka shrine, Heian shrine), Kiyomizu-Gojo (Kiyomizu temple), Fushimi-Inari (Fushimi-Inari Shrine), Tambabashi (transfer to the Kintetsu line), and Yodoyabashi (a large station in Osaka, if you plan to go there).

2) The KINTETSU line goes from Kyoto station down to Nara. The important stops are Kyoto (main transportation hub, shopping), Takeda (the PT venue, one of my favorite izakayas), Tambabashi (transfer to the Keihan line), and Yamato-Saidaiji (terminus in Nara if you plan to go there, Saidaiji temple).

3) The HANKYU KYOTO line goes from the Shijo/Kawaramachi intersection to Osaka. I don't use it much, but it does take you to Umeda (a cool part of Osaka). The important stops are Kawaramachi (a couple minutes down Shijo street from Keihan Gion-Shijo station), Karasuma (transfer to the Karasuma Subway line at Karasuma Shijo station), and Umeda (Osaka: shopping, transfer to other Osaka train lines).

4) The KARASUMA SUBWAY line goes from northeast Kyoto to Takeda, the PT venue. The important stops are Imadegawa (Imperial Palace), Shijo (transfer to the Hankyu line at Hankyu Karasuma station), Kyoto, and Takeda.

5) I rarely use the JAPAN RAIL (JR) lines because the previous ones take me everywhere I usually go, but they're important because JR runs the Shinkansen (bullet train), which is the best way to get to Tokyo, Hiroshima, or any other relatively far destinations you may visit. JR operates out of Kyoto Station.

6) I don't have much experience with the KYOTO CITY BUSES, but there are many routes, and the system covers most of the important sightseeing, shopping and nightlife sites. The buses all have their destination and notable stops listed below the route number at each bus stop, as well as a map showing the routes on a simple layout of Kyoto's streets. They're somewhat slow when compared to the trains, but cover a wider area. A single ride costs 220, while a day pass is 500.

Important: if you go out at night, make sure you don't miss the last train! Japanese trains end relatively early, and the last one usually departs around 12 AM, depending on the station and destination. If you don't want to pay for a cab (~1500 - 2000, depending on the trip), head back towards your train station by 11:45. Leave even earlier if your trip requires a transfer somewhere.

PROTIPS

Most people in stores and restaurants speak limited english, so if you find yourself lost or have questions about a purchase/meal, you should be alright. Generally, the more traditional or hole-in-the-wall a place looks, the less chance there is of anyone speaking english.

Police boxes (recognizable from the words KOBAN and a picture of a policeman riding a horse) are very useful when you're lost. Just tell the policeman where you want to go and he'll show you on a map.

Most convenience stores have incredibly clean restrooms, so if you need a bathroom while you're out, just go to the nearest 7-11/Lawson/Circle-K/Family Mart.

If you think you're near the place you want to go to but can't find it, just ask any random by saying the name of the place you want to go. If you're close to it, they'll be able to point you in the right direction, and some people are nice enough to walk you there.

DOWNTOWN

Virtually all of the following recommendations for restaurants and bars are in the downtown area of Shijo and Sanjo. The best way to get there is KEIHAN, using Gion-Shijo and Sanjo stations.

If your hotel is close to the KARASUMA SUBWAY line, take the subway to Shijo station and transfer to the HANKYU KYOTO line. Take Hankyu to Kawaramachi station, and you'll be in Shijo.

If your hotel is close to the KINTETSU line, take the train to Tambabashi and transfer there to KEIHAN, then take the Keihan train to Gion-Shijo or Sanjo station.

If your hotel is close to the HANKYU KYOTO line, just take the train to Kawaramachi station, and you'll be in Shijo.

RECOMMENDATIONS

I'm a college student on a budget, so here are some pretty good places that may not blow your mind but definitely won't bust your wallet. This is by no means an exhaustive list of all that Kyoto has to offer; these are just the places I like and frequently visit.

FOOD

Kyoto is full of all sorts of restaurants, but be warned that most "foreign" food is a Japanized version. Some places specialize in tabehoudai (all you can eat buffet); if no sign mentions it, don't be afraid to ask.

Unlike American ones, Japanese convenience stores are full of surprisingly high-quality food for cheap. Beyond regular snack foods, you can get fried food, meat buns, sushi, rice balls, sandwiches, bento (Japanese box-lunches) and even pasta that the cashier will microwave for you. Convenience stores are all open 24/7.

Fast food: Many fast food joints in Japan are open 24/7, and the food is generally much higher-quality than food of a comparable price in the US. Aside from McDonald's, Japan has:

Mos Burger - A tastier and more expensive burger chain than McDonald's, but the portions are somewhat small. A set is ~600-800, depending on the burger.

Sukiya - Japanese rice bowls, curries, and traditional side dishes in the 300-600 range.

Matsuya - Like Sukiya, but with more emphasis on the rice bowls and less on the curry. Rice bowls are from ~350 to 500.

CoCo Curry - Japanese curry with rice. Wide variety, tasty, runs from ~600-1000.

Shakey's Pizza - For those brave enough to try Japanese pizza, Shakey's is the place to go. Shakey's offers "Lunch Viking" and "Dinner Viking," which is an odd way of saying "all you can eat buffet," for stupidly cheap - lunch for ~650, dinner for ~850. In addition to pizza, you can also get curry rice, pasta and salad. Try the banana chocolate dessert pizza; it's actually pretty good. Shakey's pizza is on Teramachi, between Shijo and Sanjo streets (for how to get to Teramachi, look at the SHOPPING section).

Sushi: It's hard to go wrong with the sushi here, but unless you get it from a convenience store it will be relatively expensive (compared to other options). The two sushi places I usually frequent represent opposite sides of the quality/quantity argument, and are both on Sanjo street.

Ganko-zushi - From Keihan Sanjo station, cross the bridge west towards Starbucks, on the right-hand side of the street. Continue past Starbucks and you'll soon be in front of Ganko-zushi, recognizable by its logo of a serious-looking sushi chef's head. The food is very good, and the sashimi's quality is excellent, but expect to pay a minimum of 2000 yen if you don't want to leave hungry. They have an English menu.

Kappa Sushi - Follow the same directions as Ganko-zushi, but continue along down Sanjo street until the street ends. As soon as you cross Kawaramachi street, Kappa sushi will be on the left-hand side, recognizable by its logo of a cute vaguely-turtleish green cartoon character dressed up like a sushi chef. Kappa Sushi is a kaitenzushi (conveyor-belt sushi) establishment. After you're seated, you can freely grab sushi as it comes by on small trays. You can also place a special order using the touch screen at each table, and the food will come on a minature bullet train. Just remember to press the red button to send the train back! Most plates have 2 pieces of sushi and cost 105 yen.

Okonomiyaki: Also called "Japanese pizza," okonomiyaki is a pancake-like batter filled with various vegetables and meat/seafood and cooked on a hot plate. Okonomiyaki restaurants may not have a sign in English, but the Japanese looks like this: お好み焼き. You can't go wrong with buta (pork) or niku (beef), and for those who like seafood there's ika (squid) and ebi (shrimp).

I forget the name - From Keihan Sanjo station, cross the bridge west towards Starbucks, on the left-hand side of the street. Continue until you reach an intersection with a light (Sanjo and Kiyamachi), and turn left onto Kiyamachi street. Walk down Kiyamachi on the left-hand side of the street until you see a 7-11. Next to the entrance of the 7-11 there is an elevator, and next to the elevator are a bunch of signs, including one for okonomiyaki. Go to the floor that sign advertises. The okonomiyaki will be about 800-1000 on average.

Ramen: Ramen shops are as delicious as they are ubiquitous. Recognize them by the Japanese ラーメン or らーめん. The basic shoyu ramen (soy-sauce ramen) will cost between 500-700, and is very filling. Gyoza (chinese pot-stickers) make a good side dish, and should be between 200-300 for 5 or 6.

DRINKING

Japan is a great place to get drunk. There are no penalties for public drinking or public drunkenness, so as long as you aren't being an obnoxious dickhead you'll be fine. There are a couple main types of drinking establishments in Japan:

The izakaya - the Japanese characters for izakaya literally translate to "eat drink store," and that's what you'll do. Izakaya are the traditional bars of Japan, with a food menu full of authentic Japanese fried and grilled dishes and a hybrid drink selection consisting of sake (rice wine) and shochu (potato liquor, somewhat similar to vodka) alongside the usual beer and mixed drinks.

The bar - your usual bar; cocktails and mixed nuts.

Undoubtedly, the best thing about drinking in Japan is nomihoudai (all you can drink buffet). Instead of paying for drinks, you pay a fixed price for 1.5 to 3 hours of as many drinks as you can have. Some places charge extra to include beer as part of the buffet. Not all bars offer nomihoudai, so be sure to ask. Also, beware that some places underhandedly limit the number of drinks you have, through slow service or watery drinks.

A Bar: One of my favorite bars in Kyoto, A Bar has reasonably priced Yebisu beers, good food selection, and a great atmosphere. Instead of the usual setup, there are several smaller booths with a huge table in the center. Sharpie grafitti left by prior celebrants covers the walls, and on weekends it's hard not to make new friends, whether Japanese or fellow foreigners. A large beer will run you ~600, and mixed drinks are 500. From Keihan Shijo station, cross the bridge west toward McDonalds. Make a right onto Kiyamachi street, and cross over to the left (far) side of the river on Kiyamachi. Pass club world, and go straight into the alley. Continue straight into the next alley until you see the sign for A Bar on your left, on the second floor.

Cafe La Siesta: My other favorite bar in Kyoto, Cafe La Siesta is a gamer's paradise. The music is always 8-bit, a Super Street Fighter 2 machine sits next to the bar, and there's a giant Game Boy with a TV inside hooked up to a NES with a sizable collection of the best games. The Thai curry (700) is great, and while original drinks named 1-Up, Bonus Stage and Continue start at 600, you can get 1.5 hours of nomihoudai for 2100. The service is usually fast, the owners are good people, and you can request the drinks strong. The directions are the same as A Bar, but Cafe La Siesta is on the first floor instead of the second.

Jidaiya: This izakaya chain is probably the best drinking deal in town. Located right next to Takeda station, Jidaiya has great, cheap traditional Japanese bar snacks, but the real draw is 1.5 hours of nomihoudai for 900 yen. Try the yakitori (grilled chicken sticks); they're delicious, and a steal at only 80 yen a stick. For nomihoudai, you have to reserve in advance; it fills up quickly on weekends, so the sooner you figure out how many people and when, the better. Also, they speak very limited English, so you might want to have a Japanese judge reserve for you. The number is 075 622 0765. I don't remember exactly what exit it's next to, but if just say "Jidaiya? Izakaya?" to an employee at Takeda station, they'll be able to direct you.

Seagulls: While they also offer food, the main draw for Seagulls is getting as smashed as possible. 3 hours of nomihoudai costs 2000 (2300 with beer included), but you can order your drinks strong. Be sure to order a drink whenever you receive one, as the service can be a bit slow unless you're insistent about getting your way. From Keihan Sanjo station, cross the bridge west towards Lawson. Make a left onto Kiyamachi street, and continue straight until you see an izakaya called "Watami" on a corner on the right-hand side of the street. Turn right and walk straight past the Watami and the bowling alley. Seagulls will be on the right side of the street on the 3rd floor, across from the Hub.

SHOPPING

Things are more expensive here than in America, but there are many stores where you can shop duty-free. Otherwise, check out the outdoor shopping arcades of Teramachi and Shinkyogoku in Sanjo/Shijo.

Kyoto Station: Kyoto station is a huge complex of restaurants and stores, with an underground mall. If you want to buy things duty-free, go to Bic Camera for a giant selection of electronics.

Teramachi/Shinkyogoku: The shopping arcades of Teramachi and Shinkyogoku, bordered by Sanjo street at the north end and Shijo street in the south, offer the best shopping in Kyoto. Lined with stores, restaurants and even a couple game centers, there's little you won’t be able to find. To get to Teramamachi and Shinkyogoku:

From KEIHAN Sanjo station, cross the bridge west towards Lawson. Continue going straight along Sanjo street until the street becomes a dead end. Cross the street, and walk into the covered walkway. The arcades will trail off to the left; the nearer one is Shinkyogoku, and the further one is Teramachi.

From KEIHAN Gion-Shijo station, cross the bridge west towards McDonalds. Continue straight along Shijo street until you see a sign on your right for Shinkyogoku; if you go a bit further, you will see a sign on your right for Teramachi.

From HANKYU Kawaramachi station: Kawaramachi station has many exits. Take any of the exits that lets you out on Shijo Street, and from there walk west down Shijo street until you see the signs for Shinkyogoku and Teramachi. If you accidentally find yourself exiting into the Takashimaya department store, you can ask any of the workers to direct you to Shijo street.

Taniyama Electronics Store: Like Bic Camera but smaller, Taniyama is a several-story shop where you can buy electronics, and the entire 5^th floor is duty free. To get there, follow the same directions as for getting to Teramachi from Gion-Shijo or Kawaramachi stations, but when you get to the sign that says “Teramachi,” instead of going into the arcade, go the opposite direction down the street. Taniyama will be on your right after a short walk.

RECREATION

Karaoke: Japanese karaoke centers are multi-storied affairs with private rooms for each party, room service for food and drinks, and large song selections. If you’ve never tried it, you really should—anyone who has played Rock Band knows the awesome fun of singing poorly to your favorite music. Songs you must try: “Welcome to the Jungle,” “Say It Ain’t So,” and “Snake Eater Song” from MGS3. They’re virtually everywhere, but if you don’t see “Karaoke” in English, you can recognize a karaoke center by the Japanese カラオケ. You pay by the hour, and the cheapest times are from around 12 PM to around 5 PM.

Game Centers (Arcades): If you have an absurd craving to get your ass kicked at Street Fighter IV, there are two good arcades in the Shijo/Sanjo downtown area.

Round 1 is a large complex with ticket games, air hockey and crane games aside your usual fighters, racers and gun games. From KEIHAN Sanjo station, cross the bridge west towards Lawson. Continue straight down Sanjo street until the road ends at Kawaramachi street. Cross to the dead-end side, and turn left. Walk south down Kawaramachi street towards Shijo street. After a short walk, Round 1 will be on your right. The real games are all from the 3^rd floor up. Most games are 100 yen per play, but SFIV gives you two plays.

For the hardcore, Amusement A-Cho on Teramachi street is a no-nonsense arcade stacked with almost every major fighter from the last two decades. The competition is much better than at Round 1, so don’t be surprised if you lose. A lot. To get there, follow the directions for Teramachi street from Gion-Shijo station. Enter Teramachi, and after a short walk you will see a sign for Amusement A-Cho high up on your right. Go up the escalator, and you’ll be on the gaming floor. Most games are 50 yen per play.

Clubs: The downtown area has more than a few clubs, but I’ve only been to a couple of them. Japanese dancing etiquette is different, as people often dance by themselves, and depending on the place may not be as receptive to your advances as they would in America. Be courteous, get drunk and rock out.

Sam & Dave: This gaijin-owned chain is very popular in Kansai (western Japan), and its Kyoto location is on Kiyamachi street between Sanjo and Shijo, close to 7-11 and the okonomiyaki restaurant. Entry for men is 2000 and comes with 2 drink tickets. The first floor has a pool table, and the second floor is the main dance area. Sam & Dave is known for its foreigner population, so you’ll see a lot of other gaijin as well as questionable Japanese girls looking to hook up with said gaijin.

Club World: The biggest club in Kyoto, Club World is classier, has better music, and is frequented by fewer gaijin than Sam & Dave. However, the entry is a hefty 3000 yen, and only comes with 1 drink ticket. From Gion-Shijo station, cross the bridge towards the McDonalds. Turn right at the first intersection (Kiyamachi street), and walk down Kiyamachi on the left-hand (far) side of the river. You will soon be at Club World.

SIGHTSEEING

While the Pro Tour will take up most of your time, this may be the only chance you have to come to Japan, and it’d be a shame not to see one of the many beautiful, easily accessible cultural spots in Kyoto.

Kinkakuji: Also known as the Temple of the Golden Pavilion, this gilded Buddhist temple sits atop a placid pond. It’s a bit out of the way, but well worth it. Admission is ~500. To get there, take the 101 or 205 bus from Kyoto Station (or any stop along the way). Alternately, a faster method is to take the KARASUMA SUBWAY line to Kitaoji station, and take a bus or taxi from there to Kinkakuji.

Ginkakuji: Although the name literally translates as “Temple of the Silver Pavilion,” Ginkakuji is actually a wooden structure. While it’s currently under construction, the real draw is the traditional walking garden path that winds through the carefully sculpted grounds. Admission is ~500. To get there, take the 5, 17 or 100 bus from Kyoto Station. If you’re already near a KEIHAN station, it’s a better idea to take the train to Demachiyanagi station, and take one of the same buses from there.

Kiyomizu-dera: Sitting on a hill, the beautiful Kiyomizu temple offers a great view of Kyoto. One of the older temples in Japan, Kiyomizu-dera is known for its sacred water that is purported to bring longevity, wisdom, and health. Lesser-known but close by lies a massive Japanese graveyard with stones dating back to the mid-1800s. From KEIHAN Kiyomizu-Gojo station, walk west towards the row of convenience stores. Continue straight along Gojo street until you come upon a diagonal cross-street and a steep hill straight ahead. Go up the hill; Kiyomizu-dera is a the top.

Fushimi-Inari Taisha: My favorite place in Kyoto, Fushimi-Inari shrine offers a pleasant hike and some valuable silence, both of which are relatively hard to come by in Japan. The main shrine for the god of fortune, Fushimi-Inari is a hill criss-crossed with dozens of paths that are lined with 10,000 red gates in total. Along the hike, you’ll encounter many side paths leading to shrines of various sizes, and countless statues of foxes in red bibs. The shrines at the top of the hill are full of friendly cats, and I highly recommend making the whole circuit. The best time to go is at sundown; hundreds of lamps illuminate the mountain, and you won’t run into to too many other people. From KEIHAN Fushimi-Inari station, head across the train tracks going uphill. Just follow the path straight, and go in the same direction as the other tourists. Make sure you don’t get lost on the mountain; the paths can be confusing. Trivia: While hiking at Fushimi-Inari, the idea of foxes in red bibs flying through gates inspired Shigeru Miyamoto to create Starfox.

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO WANT TO TRY: BASIC JAPANESE

Japanese is a fairly difficult language, and the grammar is very different from that of English. Here’s a basic pronunciation guide, a list of important questions and phrases, and a list of words you can substitute into said sentences.

Pronunciation: Japanese pronunciation is much simpler than you might imagine. There are five vowels: A, I, U, E, and O.

A is pronounced ah, as in law or saab.

I is pronounced ee, as in feed or knee.

U is pronounced ooh, as in you or do.

E is pronounced ay, as in play or way.

O is pronounced oh, as in low or dough.

All the consonants are similar to those in English, with the exception of:

“R” sounds like a mix of L and R; try saying “R” while touching the tip of your tongue to the roof of your mouth.

“F” sounds like a mix of F and H; try saying “F” without touching your upper teeth to your lower lip.

Additionally, Japanese uses “Tsu,” which is pronounced how it is written.

“J” is ALWAYS pronounced like J as in “jam” or “jump”.

Useful sentence Patterns:

WHERE: _______ wa doko desu ka? (where is ___?)

HOW MUCH: _______ wa ikura desu ka? (how much is ___?)

DIRECTIONS: _______ ni dou ikimasu ka? (how do I get to ___?)

DO YOU HAVE: _______ wa arimasu ka? (do you have/is there ___?)

WHEN: ______ wa itsu desu ka? (when is ___?)

Useful phrases:

Konnichiwa. (Hello)

Jaa ne! (Goodbye!)

Arigatou. (Thank you.)

Onegaishimasu. (Please.)

Sumimasen. (Excuse me.)

Gomen nasai. (Sorry.)

Eigo o hanasemasu ka? (Do you speak English?)

Nihongo o hanasemasen. (I don’t speak Japanese.)

Useful words:

Places:

Train station: Eki

Toilet: Toire

Convenience Store: Konbini

Bar: Izakaya, Baa

Restaurant: Resutoran

Police Box: Koban

Bakery: Panya

Sushi restaurant: Sushiya

Bookstore: Honya

Arcade: Geemu Senta

Japan: Nihon

Japanese (language): Nihongo

Japanese (person): Nihonjin

Things:

Train: Densha

Taxi: Takushii

Food: Tabemono

Drinks: Nomimono

Alcohol: Sake

Beer: Biiru

Lunch: Hirugohan

Dinner: Bangohan

END

I hope some of this has been useful. This basic guide is by no means exhaustive, and I can already think of a few cool things I haven’t even had the time to write yet, but it should help you get around reasonably well. Good luck in the PT!

P.S.: If I know you from GG or MT and you’d like my number for emergency contact or general information purposes, send me a request via GMail at srosenblum.